Ben Abroad: The Gold Coast

Blog 14 (01/05)

Greetings all!

I was blessed to be able to spend this past weekend in Ghana, Togo’s western neighbor.

After filling in all the paperwork and officially disembarking Africa Mercy, myself, Josh, Elise, Juan and Bronte made for the border. We got through, changed our CFA and dollars for Cedis and then deliberated between taking an air-conditioned bus or not- the prices being 8 and 9 Cedis. After jumping in and out of Tro Tros as they are called, we settled for the cheaper and hotter bus. 3 Hours later we arrived in Accra, the jewel of West Africa.

We had planned to watch The Hunger Games- a new film based on a novel that is taking the US by storm. The cinema’s website declared it would be showing from the Friday we arrived. We were VERY disappointed to arrive and find out that it would only screen 2 weeks from then. Juan had in fact only come for the weekend in order to watch it!

We skimmed the other films and headed for the food court. I had fried chicken. From Accra Mall we walked across a few highways- crossing one, all four lanes came to a complete halt to let us j-walk. I was embarrassed. We got to a market but had no energy to convince the sellers that we were just looking. We took a rest and I bought some water. The cheapest way is in 500ml plastic bags which cost about R0.30. I bit a whole in one corner and began squeezing it into my water bottle. Apparently I squeezed to hard as it exploded from one sealed end, all over my shirt and pants. Despite cooling me down, it was rather embarrassing.

Determined to find the KFC in Accra we caught a taxi (with a driver who actually had no idea of where the place was). He dropped us off and we sauntered through a market and decided to give up the search. We were now headed for Ryan’s Irish Pub. Juan has been to Ghana a few times so he knows the good spots. This was one of them. I was most pleased to find a genuine pub! A Stormers hat even hung on the wall and Super15 rugby was playing on the TV. I had a Savannah Dry and a disappointing chicken and mushroom pie. It was a good evening.

We then got to a bus station around 8 30pm. God graciously provided us with a Tro Tro bus at a tenth of the price as were going to pay for a private taxi due to it being fairly late. We were heading for Elise’ friend’s house in northern Accra. At 10pm we were welcomed into this large, three storey house which is used as a leadership training venue.

A good thing about the humidity in West Africa is that one can travel very light. I think half of the weight in my bag was food! Also one only needs a pillow and a mattress to fall asleep- so no hassle of sheets.

Awaking on Saturday, we drove to a stall and bought pawpaw, coconut, mango, avocados and bread. We sat on the roof of our accommodation from which we had a good view of the neighbourhood and ate our breakfast with tea. Those were the most delicious pawpaws I have ever eaten. After our late breakfast, the lady with whom Elise had organized the house came around to meet us. After chatting with her about the work they do and our travel plans, we caught a tro tro to a bus station. We then split up with Juan who had already been to the slave castle we planned to visit. He was heading straight for the beach. We then travelled to Elmina Castle, 3 hours away. We went in with one of the last tour groups at about 4pm. It was a pleasant time of day in that it was not too hot and the sun was good for photos. The castle is really spectacular. It is the largest European building in Africa and the oldest south of the Sahara. It was where slaves were kept by the Dutch and British before they crossed the Atlantic. We were really glad to have gone.

As dusk dawned, we found a taxi willing to take us the 3 hour trip to Tema, from where we could go to Ada Foah, the beach camp. As it was late and there was no rank, the tro tros were not a viable option. Due to traffic, we only arrived in Tema around 10pm. Our driver did not know our final destination so he left us on the side of the road. We asked another two taxis but they too did not know the place we sought. We walked to a petrol station which was closing but there was a man leaving who offered us a lift to the taxi rank. He told us that he was a king in his tribe. He was heaven sent.

As we walked into the rank the first man to approach us knew where we were going and offered us a good rate. He also offered us his phone to call Juan since Bronte’s wasn’t working. He was also heaven sent. Sadly we still couldn’t get hold of Juan. Some spent the hour assuming that Juan had given up waiting, turned off his phone and gone to sleep. Some even saying what we were going to do to him when we found him. Having faith in the man who claims to be my father, I bet Elise that he would in fact, be rather waiting anxiously for his friends. Usually the camp is located by boat but due to the hour, no boats were traveling the last stretch. We woke a sleeping man and he walked us through a sleepy village and some sheep on the way to the camp. After passing one of the villages he told us that he would need to be escorted some of the way back since the community we had walked through offered sacrifices of human blood!

Around 12 am we arrived at the camp and heard these beautiful words “You friends with the afro guy (Juan)?” We found Juan sitting at the fire with some new acquaintances. And I made a dollar. After refreshments and recounting our day, we went crab hunting on the beach. The camp manager, however, insisted that we go back to the camp and leave the sea since people had made sacrifices to the water god that day and she might take one us. Some of the beliefs we encounter here are truly surprising. The boys set up our hammock and the girls investigated the palm branch hut with sand floor. I had an excellent sleep in my new hammock.

We woke up to an invasive rooster crowing below us. After dozing indefinitely we climbed out of the hammocks which had not dropped at all and then went for a swim in the river. The water was clean and refreshing. We ordered breakfast which took a rather long time to arrive. I had a banana pancake which really made me feel as though I were on a relaxing holiday- which I was. We played Frisbee in the river which was good fun and then I had a midday nap. We had a delicious late lunch- mine was chicken, spaghetti and African tomato sauce and then we hurried onto a boat up the river. We had left later than hoped so we could not find a tro tro. Much to the surprise of Ghanaians, we got a lift on the back of a flatbed bakkie. About two hours and a tro tro later we arrived at the border and passed through without any issue! The Lord is so good at looking after us when we travel, sending us cheaper or free lifts when we could not find public transport. I really see the love, care and provision of God this weekend.

This is a picture i took from the internet. At this week's dental sterilisation, the team saw the 3000th patient this field service. I am priveledged to have been there on such a day. I am half in the back, middle.

Last week Anna arrived safely in Wales where she will spend 3 months with my aunt Mandy and my uncle Stuart. Could you please pray for her time of growth and learning there.